29 LaSalle: Distributor question

[Hank Vander Werp]

The bakelite base of the distributor is froze in the potmetal base thus preventing the spark to be advanced or retarded.  We have tried freeing it with the usual, WD40 & PB Blaster, without any success.  Any suggestions on how to loosen up these two parts without breaking them?  Thanks

Hank

[35-709]

Posted here not too long ago ------


Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.  Significant results!  They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.
*Don't forget the April 2007 "Machinist's Workshop" magazine comparison
test.*
**
*They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with
the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a
"scientifically rusted" environment.*
**

*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission
fluid and acetone.*
*Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one
particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now
use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about
as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. *

[Otto Skorzeny]

"scientifically rusted" environment

What the hell is that?  Getting stuff to rust on a car ain't rocket science!


By the way, do you use Dexron, Type F or Honda-Matic in your "home brew"?

[35-709]

   Haven't had occasion to try it yet, just thought it would be helpful.  If it is a GM car you are working on I would use Dexron of course!    

[Dan LeBlanc]

Ok, I hate dredging up old posts but I felt I had to on this one.  I tried the acetone/ATF mix as a penetrating oil tonight on the studs where the y pipe mounts on my 61 and on some muffler clamps.  I must say, it works abosolutely amazingly!  On the studs, I hardly had to torque on the nuts to break them free, and once they were, I could get them off with my fingers.

Just don't inhale the fumes - they're pretty strong.  It also starts to bubble when it hits the rust.

All in all, I'll never buy penetrating oil again!

[Otto Skorzeny]

I concur, Dan. I began using it after this thread and I won't be buying PB Blaster again. I wonder how hard it would be to package that brew in spray cans and sell it?