steering column bowl repair

[Fred Pennington 25635]

Greetings, I'm new to CLC
I have a 40 Lasalle 50, I have crack in the bowl at the top of the steering column. not a big deal but would like to repair.
I assume it's potmetal. Who can repair at a reasonable price.

Thanks

[Bruce Berghoff-CLC #1476]

Hello Fred... You're absolutely right... that's called your "mast jacket" and it's some kind of pot metal. It possibly can be repaired right in place, and you can probably be the technician to do the job ...even though you've maybe never undertaken something like that before. Email me a picture of the damage and I'll reply with instructions on hopefully solving your problem with a minimum of fuss ( and expense) . Regards, Bruce

[Fred Pennington 25635]

Thanks, another member has emailed me. He has one for sale at a very reasonable price.

Fred

[jim thomas]

Thanks, another member has emailed me. He has one for sale at a very reasonable price.

Fred

Fred, congratlaion on becomming a member of there CLC.If you
havet't alreaty agreed to buy the one fron another member, why not try some J. B.WELD
let the JBW  dry  24 or more and sand and repaint hope you like your membeship as much as you like your LAS JIM

[Fred Pennington 25635]

Thanks, JB Weld was my first thought. But when I pulled it out of the cold garage ( the part is off the car ) I notice the crack was wider and the two sides were offset. as it warmed up the crack virtually disappears. That said I don't know how the JB Weld would work. Would it hold? Would it crack? How long would it last?

Fred

[Bruce Berghoff-CLC 1476]

Hey Fred... JB Weld is probably the right approach and with a little ingenuity you can lick the offset expanding crack problem . First clean the inside of the part on both sides of the crack of any paint or grease, and warm the part to close the crack ; next -  drill several 3/32" holes on 1" centers about 1/2" away from the crack on both sides of the crack; then - with some 1/16" dia. annealed stove pipe wire,cut some 6" lengths and lace it diagonally to form some wire "X"s ; fit them into the drilled holes from the inside of the bowl ( bridging the crack , and draw the crack snugly closed ) . With the excess ends of the wire now lightly twisted together on the outside of the bowl , mix up some JB Weld and tack-bond the "X"s in place inside the bowl. When that has set... snip the wires as close as you can at the outside of the bowl;  mix some more JB and carefully fill around the ends of the wires where they exit the bowl surface. After the JB thoroughly cures you can file the wire ends to blend to the bowl surface ; grind or file the crack to a 1/8" "V" , fill with JB Weld ; and dress the surface after cure. You're now ready to prime and proceed with finish paint prep. This whole operation might take a couple of days in drying time...but not much more than an hour , or so , in working time ! Once you've done it you can apply the same system to lots of restoration applications ! ( You'll be saving taillight housings , heater shrouds, and all sorts of goodies .... bb

[Fred Pennington 25635]

Interesting approach I'll give it some thought

Fred