2 post lift help

[bcroe]

Certainly big machinery always requires care.  I think the most
critical thing about the 2 post is good concrete anchors.  Mine is
some 6" thick, originally intended for a 5 ton motor home, and
has no cracks at all after some years.  2 of us (not big guys)
managed to unload it from a truck, and laid it out.  In 2 patient
days, I was able to erect it myself, using an engine hoist, a
hammer drill, and a tall ladder.  The engine hoist got the 2 base
sections in place, some 500 lbs each.  I shimmed them till they
were absolutely perfectly vertical, and they get checked for any
variation now and then. 

The top sections are less heavy; managed them on a ladder. 
Set the arms on stumps while I adjusted the cable for same
height.  The one thing that scared me was bleeding in the
4 gallons of trans fluid.  There were a couple bleeders I was
instructed to open, through a small hole.  Shortly after I finished
with them, the big piston moved without warning across the
space.  NOTHING ABOUT THIS IN THE INSTRUCTIONS, what if
my fingers had been in there?   So BEWARE. 

In 2 days I was lifting cars.  Used temp wires to my welder
outlet, took more time to install a proper 220V line.  My 8 hp
generator set can operate it if needed.  Bruce Roe

[76eldo]

TJ,

Some are attached at the top, others at the bottom, but all 2 post lifts have to be tied together in one way or the other.

Brian

[TJ Hopland]

I meant in addition to the framework that came with the lift someone had attached the rails at the bottom.  They were probably about 10'.  I would imagine they were there to do a little weight distribution front to back.   They were kinda annoying, I kept tripping on them till I got used to them.   Better than having the lift tip over I guess. 

[Glen]

My biggest concern about a two post lift is tipping.  There could be a large force trying to tip the hoist.  The floor anchors must be strong enough to prevent that.  That means the floor must also be strong enough.  If you put a front wheel drive such as my 68 ELDO on one of these lifts the unbalance might rip the anchors out or the concrete may break if not made right. 

In short the distribution of weight is not as much of a concern as the failure of the floor allowing the post to tip.  That explains the guy putting train track rails on his. 

A four post lift does not have this problem but the car is still sitting on all four wheels and you still have to jack up the car to remove the wheels to work on brakes etc.  A two post lift leaves almost everything accessible. 
 
Glen

[76eldo]

The structure and condition of the floor is very important.  When I built my garage I knew where the lift was going and there is about an 8" thick area that the lift is sitting on and when the installer put it in he checked the depth and condition on the concrete when they drilled the anchor holes.

If your garage is older and is a typical 4" slab, that still might be OK, but I really think it's important to have it installed professionally.

When I lift something like a 69 Eldo or my 76 Eldo I compensate for the front/rear weight bias by keeping the car back a little bit and not centering it the same as I would for my son's Mitsubishi Eclipse.

Brian

[D.Yaros]

When I lift something like a 69 Eldo or my 76 Eldo I compensate for the front/rear weight bias by keeping the car back a little bit and not centering it the same as I would for my son's Mitsubishi Eclipse.

Brian

  As I put my regular cars on the lift, in addition to my classics, I deemed it both wise and expedient to invest in a volume that illustrates the lifting points for vehicles.  Last thing I wanted to do was drive the lift pads right through the floor of my Toyota!

[curly]

I always placed a tall jackstand under the rear of any long wheelbase vehicle,for extra support and for peace of mind.

T Lewis

[gary griffin]

Very interesting post. I did my lift research a couple of years ago and decided on a 4 post per my criteria. My lift was mainly to convert my garage to a 5 car garage. I have a 4 car garage with only one high bay where the lift would be installed, I wanted the widest opening under it possible so I could park my truck or any other vehicle under it without messing with the mirrors. I wanted it to be as tall as possible so I could easily walk under it and I am 6'-2", and I wanted it to be as long as possible for storage purposes (currently there is a roadster and a Goldwing motorcycle on the lift), and finally I wanted it to be easily moved as I may move to a smaller house/bigger shop and garage when I retire. I also bought a wheel acessory kit with it so I can move it to the back of my garage later if I want to. It is used mainly for storage but it can easily accomodate a cross beam (there are tracks on the side of the rails for this putrpose) for jacking purposes.  My lift is free standing and does not require bolting to the floor and there is far less stress on the floor so my standard 4inch plus or minus floor is quite adequate. It is not as easy to work on a car with a 4 post lift except in the center of the car where the drive train and fuel tank are there is plenty of room between the rails. Also since it is always up woth a car on it it is quite dark under it and I installed a row of lights and electrical outlets to the inside of the rail permanantly which I plug in when the lift is up. Everything considered  I ended up with the big 9000 pound Bendpak. I am a steamfitter weldor and inspected the welds and they are quite good and everything else seems quite good also. Good luck with your purchase. Gary Griffin

[gary griffin]

  Another benefit of 4 post lifts is that they  also have tracks on the rails which accomodate Jacks and trays to catch any oil or water drips from the top vehicle  to my Lil Red Dodge truck.
  Again my primary purpose is a lift primarily used for storage. I have seen 4 post lifts used as elevators access upper levels, and decked over with hand rails and everything and used for storage.

[bcroe]

For storage, a 4 post is easiest.  Only reason for a 2 post, is to make it
much easier to work on the car.  I use big sheets of cardboard under
the car to catch drips when working.  The cardboard gets burned &
replaced pretty regularly.  Bruce Roe

[gary griffin]

So true Bruce and I store a car on top and a Lil Red Express truck under it more than I work on mine and drippage was a big part of my decision

[caddyman]

I never expected this post to go this long..  But as for the assymetrical or symetrical lift I'm pretty sure this rotary I'm looking at you can choose either way symetrical or not way to lift.  I've read its easier on the lift if you don't lift assymetricaly.  And I've been told to get a extra wide version of the lift then you can open your doors just fine lifting the conventional way.  I can't beleive how careful one has to be when buying one of these!  Alot of research has to go into this...  Chris 18814

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

If you have a Convertible, don't try and open the doors when on a two-poster.

Bruce.

[D.Yaros]

Agree on not opening conv. doors on a 2-post lift.  Body/frame is too flexible.  Fact is, at least on my car, doors will open, but will not close while on the lift.

[caddyman]

Does it hurt to have the top up and latched when on a lift?  Should I unlatch the top?  It doesn't flex to the point of putting stress on the top does it?

Chris

[D.Yaros]

Absolutely no problem having the top up & latched while on the lift.  Not required, but no problem.

[Gene Beaird]

And if these posts haven't confused you enough, lifts are discussed ad-nauseam on another forum called 'The Garage Journal': http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/